March 12. The sky was not yet fully light when I arrived at the departures curb of Taoyuan Airport. Engines, voices, the sound of suitcase wheels rolling over the ground — the most familiar overture of any journey. This time I was flying EVA Air to Singapore, and with such an early start, my first steps were reserved for the lounge: EVA Air's The Garden.
First to the Table: Tian Xiang Lou's Dongpo Pork
Not long after I sat down, a small clay pot arrived. Engraved on its body were the words 'Tian Xiang Lou'; inside, glossy slow-braised Dongpo pork — the signature of Hangzhou's celebrated Tian Xiang Lou, and an unexpected encounter in an airport lounge. On the same tray was a bowl of clear soup, its broth transparent, slices of meat half-hidden within. A first sip, and my stomach was warmed through.
The pork was braised so thoroughly that it parted at the lightest touch of the chopsticks: the fat melts in the mouth, the lean meat tender without a trace of dryness, the sweet-savoury sauce reduced to exactly the right depth. Eaten slowly, with sparkling water alongside, most of the early-morning drowsiness quietly dispersed.
The Wines, More Serious Than Expected
The drinks were laid out more seriously than I had imagined. Chilling in the bucket was a South African Chenin Blanc, flowers and a butterfly painted on its label; the other bottle, a gently sweet Moscato. Looking further, behind the bar, Taiwan's own Kavalan whisky stood on the spirits shelf — a sight that feels especially warm in one's home airport.
Two reds were set out on the counter as well: a Silenus from the south of France, and an aged Reserva from Spain's Rioja. Reds and whites both present, each with its own character — a more generous selection than many lounges offer.
Sitting Down, Eating Slowly
I chose one of the semi-private booths. The seats are partitioned from one another, with a reading light at the table and outlets within reach — a quiet meal, a few messages answered, and the time before departure turned unhurried.
What remains most vivid about the space is the great school of white fish overhead — gathered into the shape of a slow vortex beneath the glass skylight, as if drifting gently in the daylight that pours through. The food counter is one long white surface, breads, pastries and hot dishes arranged in sections, the walkways spacious. So early in the morning there were few people about, and no queueing for food.
The cold bar is kept fresh on crushed ice — crisp greens, vivid tomatoes. Anyone in the mood for something lighter can compose a proper salad of their own.
The Star of the Morning: This Bowl of Clear Beef Soup
But what truly won me over was this bowl of clear beef soup. The broth follows the clear-braised style, owing nothing to a heavy, dark sauce — clean and lightly sweet on the palate, yet with real depth beneath. The beef was tender, and the most captivating part was the tendon: braised until nearly translucent, it melts in the mouth, its silken gelatin slowly unfurling. Beside it, a bowl of wagyu gyūdon, the slices laid on generously, scallions fragrant over the top. One soup, one rice — simple, and complete.
To be honest, this bowl would hold its own set down in any of the city's celebrated beef noodle shops. To meet such a soup, such tendon, before even boarding — the journey had yet to take off, and I was already fed full of happiness.
After the wine and the meal, I picked up a bottle of Liu Feng Tea's high-mountain oolong. Whole leaves open slowly in the bottle, the liquor bright and clear — to bring the taste of Taiwanese tea into the lounge is a thoughtful, local touch.
The Garden in Its Details
The washroom deserves a mention of its own: walls of circular-patterned tiles, a spacious washstand — in such details, the care behind the upkeep shows.
Before leaving, I walked slowly back along the corridor. Wooden walls and the tall skylight make the space feel open, and greenery is dotted among the seating — this garden gathers the early morning into quiet, with daylight and green.
The juice bar pours cold-pressed juice from big dispensers, there for the taking. It is these small things, added one to another, that make up a lounge's sincerity.
The Last Stop: Bread from Le Moût
Full and content, I stopped by Le Moût Pâtisserie and used my DragonPass to redeem my favourite bread — two large bags, satisfyingly heavy in hand. The journey had not yet begun, and my luggage had already taken on the weight of happiness. Perhaps that is exactly why I love arriving at the airport early.
Good to Know
Name: EVA Air The Garden Lounge
Location: Taipei Taoyuan International Airport, Terminal 2
Visited: Early morning, March 12, 2025
Highlights: Tian Xiang Lou Dongpo pork; clear beef soup and beef tendon; red and white wines alongside Kavalan whisky; Häagen-Dazs; cold-pressed juice; Liu Feng cold-brew tea
A small tip: Once you are full, do not forget: Le Moût Pâtisserie inside the airport lets you redeem bread with DragonPass.
