Tokyo was still cool at the end of April, and this journey began not at an airport but at the Harumi Cruise Terminal — we were sailing with Silversea aboard Silver Moon, departing from Tokyo. Once the luggage was in the car, everything slowed down. My mind had already switched to the rhythm of the sea before we even boarded.
Checking in at the terminal
The Harumi terminal was calmer and more orderly than I expected. Baggage drop first, then check-in — the flow was clear, with no need to guess where the crowd was heading. In the hall stood a welcome wall made of cherry blossoms spelling out WELCOME TOKYO, and on a small table nearby sat a basket of origami — cranes, frogs, tiny boxes — with a note saying guests were welcome to take one. The waiting time felt softer for it.
A crew member handed us the day's Chronicles, the ship's daily program. Its first page read "Welcome aboard Silver Moon!" above a map of our voyage. For me, the trip truly begins the moment that paper is in my hands — a fresh Chronicles would be waiting in the suite every day from now on.
A small note: checked luggage is delivered straight to your suite, so keep only a light bag with you — and keep your passport and key card on your person, never in the checked bags.
The ship, right in front of us
Stepping out of the terminal, Silver Moon was simply there. Launched in 2020, she measures 40,700 tons and carries just 596 guests — small and refined by cruise ship standards. Her white hull stood out even under a grey sky, her name written quietly across the stern. Our key cards came in dark leather holders; holding mine, I walked up the gangway step by step while the harbour slowly fell away below.
A warm towel, champagne and caviar
The moment we stepped inside, a crew member offered a rolled warm towel with tongs — the warmth in my palms quietly took half the travel fatigue away. Down the corridor, crew members smiled and gestured us in, and soon after we sat down, champagne arrived with a small bite: caviar on a crisp little tart, a single mouthful, with bubbles alongside. Silver Moon's first hello.
The wine list ran from champagne, whites and reds to beers and local flavours. There is no need to study it on embarkation day — a sip and a look out of the window will do.
A first walk on deck
Before the suite was ready, we went up on deck. The pool area was quiet — a round whirlpool, the long main pool, rows of loungers. The sky was overcast, but the sea breeze already smelled like holiday. From up high, Tokyo sat behind us and the ship beneath our feet; two kinds of life met exactly there.
Lunch by the pool｜The Grill
Lunch was at The Grill, right by the pool. It keeps things relaxed: teal placemats, white plates, and first a platter of tortilla chips with four dips — salsa, guacamole, sour cream and cheese — to graze on while we talked. For mains we had a grilled sandwich with sweet potato fries, a wrap with fries, and a Caesar salad with chicken. Not an elaborate meal, but exactly right for embarkation day: satisfying, with room left for dessert in the afternoon.
Afternoon tea at the Arts Café
In the afternoon we settled into the Arts Café, the ship's coffee house, with its orange armchairs and small wooden tables. The cakes in the display looked like little jewels. We ordered a lemon meringue tart, a tiramisu, a strawberry tart, a mille-feuille and macarons, with a matcha latte and coffee. One bite of the mille-feuille, its layers slowly giving way — happiness on a trip can be very small sometimes, about the size of a forkful of cake.
Later we added a pot of flower tea and a half-finished macaron, and let the afternoon pass by the window. The Arts Café never rushes anyone; read a book, daydream a little — it is that kind of place.
Back to the suite, unboxing slowly
Fed and rested, our suite was ready. Down the quiet corridor, door open — Silver Moon is an all-suite ship, and ours was divided into a bedroom and a living area, with a balcony and the sea beyond the sliding doors.
The living area had a sofa, an armchair and a marble-topped round table holding chilled champagne and a pot of orchids. Robes were already hanging in the wardrobe, drawers neatly divided; by the vanity there was a coffee machine with capsules and tea bags, and the fridge was stocked with still and sparkling water, beer and cola. My favourite detail was the pair of sage-green water bottles by the bed, with a small card explaining that the ship encourages guests to refill rather than use single-use plastic. Sustainability arranged as an everyday habit — that, I appreciate.
Settled in — one more walk around the ship
With everything put away, we went out again to get to know the ship properly. The SILVERSEA letters on her hull were quiet in the evening light; the atrium staircase has a skylight, and daylight falls from above. On deck there are viewing seats facing Tokyo Bay, and the theatre — red-lit ceiling and all — is where the evening shows happen. This was also the spa and fitness deck: a sauna with a round window looking out to sea, a steam room, lockers stacked with rolled towels and a plate of oranges. An orange after a workout sounds about right.
The butler arrives
Towards evening, our butler came by to introduce himself. Every suite on Silver Moon has one. After greeting us, he asked carefully about our habits — what we like to drink, pillow preferences, when we would like the suite tidied each day. As he asked, he poured the champagne: a Duval-Leroy, chilled just right. Being remembered like that feels reassuring; the days ahead on board already felt looked after.
The safety briefing, and the end of day one
One proper task remained before bed: the safety briefing. The muster station was listed both on the announcements and in the Chronicles, so we went to check in, watched the crew demonstrate the life jacket and the assembly procedure — a dozen minutes or so, all told. Every guest must complete it, and finishing early settles the mind.
Afterwards we stood on deck for a while. Tokyo's lights were not fully on yet, and the sea was grey-blue. Day one passed just like that — no rushing between sights, just boarding, eating, walking, and settling into a room until it felt like ours. The voyage itself can wait until tomorrow.
